1970 Olds Cutlass

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Snoopy Picture

Olds Script

Fantasy Snoopy

More what I'd like it to be!

Click on the image for a bigger pic.

Another view of the real thing.

This was made by photocopying the photo above, cutting and pasting to lower it, then photocopying again (obviosly, this was before I discovered scanners...). The multiple photocopies resulted in the stipple effect!

11/11/03

Super Deform 442

A fun little picture I doodled at work...

More Pictures Here

1971 Cutlass Parts Car

How about an Olds V8 Mailbox?

- This would be MY car, Snoopy. Of all the cars I've owned, this one seems to suit me best. Lots of room (We're talkin 6 comfortably, 8 intimate inside, and about 4-6 dead bodies in the trunk!), over 300 HP stock - and it ain't stock no more, easily available parts (same chassis as Chevelle, GTO, Skylark '68-'72 ), and it can (WILL!) be made to handle with parts from Global West and Hotchkis incorporating taller B-body spindles and (optionally) 12-inch disc brakes.

A-body brake and suspension resources and info.

Snoopy is a 1970 Oldsmobile Cutlass Sport Coupe. One of only about 1500 Sport Coupes (Post coupes - as opposed to hardtop) made that year. He has an Olds Rocket 350 4-barrel factory rated at 310 (gross) hp, and has since gained a Mondello JM-18-20-H cam, Edelbrock Performer intake, and a later-model HEI ignition. Soon to come are headers and a Flowmaster exhaust, among other things. Snoop is equipped with such niceties as AC, power steering, power front disc brakes, lighted rear view mirror, map light, power trunk, and auto trans.

Somethimg you don't see in the photo ('cuz it wasn't there) is a huge smack-ola in the right rear quarter panel. A Blazer snockered me on Loop 12 in Dallas and now I have a collossal crinkle. Know anyone with a good, rust free 70-72 Cutlass (not Supreme or Convert) right rear quarter panel? Seriously, email me if you do.

Snoop's got a pretty simple audio system - Kenwood KRC-3006 shafted (so I didn't have to cut the dash) changer controller (the only model I've ever seen - nobody else makes one), and an ancient Kenwood (actually Sony innards) 10-disc CD changer - old it may be, but it doesn't skip. Two Pioneer 2-way 3-1/2's occupy the factory center dash 6x9 location (I know- no stereo imaging at all - I'm working on kick panel speaker pods, don't want to cut my doors!), Coustic 2-way 6x9's in the factory rear deck locations (oddly, there are two factory cut-outs, but you could only get a single rear speaker from Olds), and two Pioneer free-air 12-inchers on a baffle board behind the rear bulkhead (still no cutting- they fire thru holes already there). All this is powered by a Carver M-2120 2x120 Watts on the woofers, and a Pyramid Gold (stop laughing - it works!) PB-290 pushing about 65 Watts to each of the 6x9's. The 3-1/2's run off of the radio, and are sensitive enough that they are just as loud as everything else. Capacitors on the 6x9's and 3.5's to keep from beating them to death, and the Carver has an internal crossover for the subs. Simple, but effective. Future upgrades call for the aforementioned kick-panels housing Polk Audio 5-1/4 components, and, of couse, better amps!
I finally put in an alarm - a Clifford that I can control with the same remotes as my wife's Sonoma, and door lock actuators. I love remote convenience - even pops the trunk!

Finally, I have a Dynomometer chart for the Cutlass! This will be my baseline for future upgrades.

5/12/03: Electric Fan installation!

4/10/06: I took part the front of the car to fix an oil leak!

4/11/06: Part 2!

5/3/06: Engine bay makeover, wherein the above two posts are explained.

Future Upgrades

Fuel Injection - for economy and drivability, it's the only way to go! I'm currently on the buy list for a MegaSquirt do-it-yourself EFI controller kit from the DIY-EFI list. Once I have that (and it's built), a mid-to-late 70's Cadillac EFI manifold, injector, fuel rail, and throttle body should get me started (they used Olds engines those years.)

EFI Project Page

Suspension and brakes - as noted above, I'm going for the taller F/B-body spindles, which allow 12" discs in addition to changing the roll-center of the car favorably. I'd love to add four-piston 'Vette calipers and rear discs as well, if finances allow. Heavier anti-sway bars are a must, as are heavier springs, and a plethora of polyurethane bits. Stiffer gas shocks will probably be required as well.

A-body brake and suspension resources and info.

Wheels and Tires - once the suspension's up to snuff, it'll need tires capable of using it. I'm thinking 17" x 9" American Racing Torque-Thrust II wheels (classic, yet modern). Yokohama AVSi tires would be good, but then, almost everything in the sizes I'm looking at are good.

Transmission /Driveline- I'd like a GM-adapted Tremec 5-speed or a T-56, but a T-5 or 700R4 would do. Shorter gears in the rearend are a must as well - they're currently 2.73, with no limited slip. 3.55s or so would work well with an overdrive tranny.

Engine - here's where it gets fun. Besides the EFI, I'd like to go the Junk Yard Turbo route - a pair of Ford T-Bird T-03s, a decent-sized intercooler, and as much boost as the engine can take. Speaking of which, I'm going to have to do something about the factory 350's 10.25:1 compression ratio. I think a 71-or-later 350 or 403 would work well. The 350s have 8.5:1 and the 403s are 8.0:1. Ideal for boost, and both motors still have plenty of torque for off-the-line performance. turbos prefer a mild cam (very little overlap) so that's no problem, and I'll be outfitting it with Competition Cams' roller-tip stud-mount adjustable rocker arms (the factory Olds units are pedestal mount non-adjustables.)

Here's some of the turbo sites and info I've found for reference.

A comparison of small-block and big-block 70-72 radiator top plates. Commented.

A comparison of some of the Olds v-belt arrangements.

A couple of other varieties of '70 Olds Cutlass. The black one on the left is a 442 W-30 option. This was the baddest of the bad, The pinnacle of 442-ness. High compression 455 ci motor with bunches of W-30 specific bits, special trim paint, and the Outside Air Induction Fiberglas hood. The W-30 had a small-block little brother known as the W-31 - very similar appearance, but a more affordable souped-up 350 ci engine.

The (very) yellow car on the right is a Rallye 350, and they were all that color. The bumpers were coated in a paint-matching urethane, and it sported a healthy 350 ci engine. Outside Air Induction hood and "ironing-board" rear wing were also part of the package, along with the black stripes outlined in red pinstripes. Many that I've seen didn't have trim rings on the wheels, which actually looked pretty good.

   

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