The car is currently not running. It will need at least a new camshaft and oil pump kit to run, but as the motor has over 150K miles on it, I would rebuild it if going that far. Engine ran well before the owner (that would be me) made a boneheaded manuever regarding the oil pump gaskets. I fixed a leak and failed to realize that the gaskets between the base and housing of the oil pump are also shims necessary for clearance between the base and the oil pump gears. The gears bound on start-up, and sheared several teeth off of the distributor drive and the cam. Now, I fixed that, as only one tooth sheared off the cam initially. Since it was helical, that meant that even with one tooth missing, the gears would never lose mesh, so I replaced the distributor, put in a new timing set for good measure, put in a new high-volume oil pump gear set, and put all new gaskets in the front cover. It ran great - just long enough to test drive it and get a fresh tank of gas. Apparently, the remaining teeth were weakened , or there was still a little binding in the oil pump. At any rate, one of the teeth managed to make it's way into the oil pump. CLANG! Back to where I was.
A replacement distributor is included with the car.
Before I 'fixed' it, the car ran very well, but a little low on oil pressure - main bearings are getting worn. Car did not smoke or use oil (other than what it leaked), transmission shifted OK, though it looks like it needs a pan gasket (leaks). I replaced the 2.42:1 rear end some time ago with a 3.23:1 unit from an '82 Century station wagon, along with the appropriate speedometer gear. Speedo was dead on last time I drove it, and it ran great for that 50-mile trip.
Body & Chassis:
Body is solid, no rust other than surface rust on the hood and small rust holes in roof where the vinyl half-top used to reside. These have been treated, and are no longer rusting, but not filled. There is a pretty decent dent in the drivers door, and a scrape on the passenger rear quarter. The urethane fillers between body and bumpers have just about completely disintegrated. All glass is good, except for a crack in the passenger side of the windshield. Original blue paint is tired. All missing trim is in the trunk (some painted black), including trim for a non-vinyl-top rear window. Please see pictures.
Chassis is solid, but bushings and such are worn as normal for a car with 150K+ miles on it.
New powersteering pressure hose, new front disc brake pads, good rear brake shoes. New front tires and good rear tires on 14" Buick Rally wheels (center caps missing.)
Interior is worn as expected for 150K miles, tears in driver's side of cloth bench seat, carpet OK (always used floor mats), some cracks in dash vinyl. I added factory power door locks and Concert Sound door speaker grilles. Rear seat is in good condition. Headliner is falling, as normal for GM cars. Cruise Control works. AC should work with recharge (compressor turns.) Tilt steering column. Again, please see pictures below for an idea of condition.
All electrical is in working order - lights, signals, etc. all function normally. Car was tagged and inspected to November of 2002. With a new or rebuilt engine, this car could go forever, but I have too many other projects to resurrect this one.
Car's title is clear, and I have most of the records and receipts for parts and service. I also have a notebook where I recorded pretty much anything that I did to the car (oil changes, new parts, service, etc.)
If you have any questions not answered above or in the pictures below, please contact me, and I'll try to answer them.
Click on the pictures to enlarge.
The Buick's page on my website.